— Nina Mehta

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Summer has passed which means at least a third of San Francisco’s nomads have wandered though Berlin. The two cities are obvious matches for one another: both with their own versions of alternative lifestyles, young spirits, immigrants, and deeply complex socio-political issues. 
Bay Area techies and house heads love coming to this cheap, spacious, creative, more underground, concrete version of San Francisco. Berliners regularly seem charmed by the optimistic dreamers and coastal views. 

“When the wall came down, everything became possible.” That’s what native Berliners tell me about the magic of the German capital. 

And it’s that very ideal seems to draw Gold Rushers to Berlin: possibility. I’m curious how many will stay. San Francisco used to offer creative, expressive, grand possibilities. Almost anyone could try on a new religion, new style, new sexuality, new job, new politic, new beliefs. The city would celebrate whoever you want to be this year, this day, this hour, and it didn’t matter how much money you had. 

Silicon Valley looms over San Francisco like the evening fog. If you’re unprepared, you’ll be left shivering in Dolores Park. Even if you can pull off living in SF economically (hello rent control!) and will put up with smelly streets and sloppy public transit, the new rich culture makes many other city charms, that possibility thing I was talking about, much more difficult.

Which brings us back to Berlin. It’s an incredible place for San Franciscans to take a holiday. But living here is not so easy. We are not so patient with inconveniences. Rules, paperwork, structure, and formalities. Learning German is difficult but I believe is necessarily if you will actually LIVE here. If you’re not white, some things just won’t come easy. Most of you probably read my racism post and a lot of you disagreed so let’s not get too deep into that here.

Several of my German friends have sadly left this city because they couldn’t find a work. People in my demographic want to live here but the money and jobs are in Munich and Frankfurt. Good work seems to be hard to find in Berlin. 

There is a tech scene here but VCs seem hesitant to take leaps on innovative concepts and practitioners are only now starting to get permission to do user research. And I hear my German startup friends complaining about legal barriers. It’s hard to launch in Germany! Techies need to ship. Things get pretty rough if you can’t move fast and break things. 

I love Berlin. I love it so much. I think I’ll live here again someday. But despite all the problems in San Francisco, I haven’t found another city that has both a fetish for fetishes and Redwood trees on demand

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Sweeping ocean views and charming winding roads draw people from around the world to the Amalfi Coast. However, if you live in California this is a place you can skip.
It’s obvious there was a time this Coastal paradise was a hidden gem. But it’s now discovered and congested with lost tourists, smoggy busses, and high prices.

No question, my friend, another California resident and I had a great time. But mostly because we had 9 months of life to catch up on–and Amalfi is great for that. It’s also an obvious honeymoon spot since there’s my much to do there but nestle up with a loved one and watch the waves roll in.
Capri is obviously more expensive but equally congested. The times we hung out by the pool or lazed at the beach or our hotel terrace were the highlights.

Surely having a car gives you more flexibility to explore the coastline (like big sur) but among the traffic and motion sick-inducing roads isn’t worth it for me. Amalfi is two hours from Naples and even getting to Capri from the airport requires a ride into town and a ferry. The boat rides for us ended up being more of a hassle than a charm. However, don’t be afraid to go up to the top “first class” deck, there seems to be no difference in tickets.
The food was good, but it wasn’t great. I’ve eaten better in other Italian cities so you’re defiantly going to Amalfi again for the views. Another perk over Big Sur is the temperature and access to beaches.


Though the beaches are rocky not sandy, the water is turquoise clear and refreshing on a hot day. We luckily stayed here during a harvest moon which mean light was always twinkling over the vast ocean.

If you go, here are a few recommendations.

– You need more than a long weekend to slow down your pace here.

– Choose a hotel with a good restaurant and far from Amalfi

– Choose the lemon over chocolate desserts

– Spend a day at the Artisiti Beach. For $40 you can rent two chairs, an umbrella, and get cocktails and a yummy lunch. They have changing rooms and kind people.

– Get an ocean view hotel and wake up for sunrise. Don’t worry, there is plenty of time for naps

– Ignore foursquare, the recommendations didn’t always match the experience 

– There are less expensive places in the world to hang in your hotel with an Ocean View with fewer tourists

– if you do go, enjoy doing nothing fully!

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Most feedback I get about Burning Man in Berlin is:

  • We have a lot of events and places to go inspired/similar to Burning Man
  • I’d really like to go but it’s very far and expensive
  • I go to the regional burns
  • I’ve never heard of it

I was dancing at Berghain the day the man burned and saw a nice young man with playa goggles on his head. As a Bay Area American I really try not to talk about Burning Man especially at festivals and clubs. I’ve found some friends to (rightfully) get defensive about their events because Americans celebrate the desert festival so hard not making much room for other conversations. But in this case, I couldn’t not ask the goggled man if he too was having a little playa moment.

Unfortunately he had no idea what I was talking about. I’m more surprised how far of the the desert art festival has spread in such subtle ways and yet still barely exists.

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I put in a lot of effort in several forums and groups to get a group of Burners together, but no bite. People who had been to the original playa in Nevada.

In the end I had three friends over from very different worlds. We wrote down our new year’s goals, desires, and things to burn away and kept them in our pockets. The wood temple we intended to Burn wasn’t possible so we built our own man from my art supply paper and took it behind the RAW warehouses. In front of a rock statue on a bed of wet sand I lit two incense sticks, dropped in our wishes, drank some red wine from the bottle, and sent up some flames. It was sweet, primal, and intimate.

When Burning Man does come up in Berlin conversations, and sometimes it does, I appreciate the criticism. “Isn’t San Francisco trying to shape the future? How can all those people spend all that money and ignore the homeless? Isn’t it horrible for the environment? Why does it cost so much? Is it a techie networking event? ” The list goes on.

None of these criticisms are new. But in Berlin the criticism stand on their own compared to at home when someone will quickly reaffirm that we should go anyway because it’s; fun. I’m not feeling drawn to return after two years of horrible weather. But this year looked so good. And one week my friends decide to take a vacation at the same time with only the right distractions is temping.

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Escape from the concrete jungle during hot summer days seems to define the season. All winter and spring I heard the long fantasies for long days of light bathing in cool pools. On the hottest days the city empties and you know exactly where everyone has gone.

There are a few small lakes near Berlin but I’m told they’re accessible but dirty.

 

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Caputh Lake Potsdam (West)

This is my favorite lake near Berlin so far. I’m not poster child for hiking and camping so I appreciate when a few services are available on hand. With a 9 Euro entrance fee you can get a beach bed, access to an excellent cocktail bar, a shower, little changing area, and slightly maintained swimming area. There was a bit more a family crowd here but the sand (in and out of the water) was very soft and the children well behaved. There are two routes below but honestly they both felt like a zip because the whole ride is through the trees. There’s one especially good spot to eat nearby, I don’t know the name off the top of my head but I can get it for you. Foursquare kept yelling to me not to eat in the restaurant. I liked the lake because it felt slightly more private, cleaner, and had a little extra care. The mojiots were a dream come true and without planning all the logistics you’ll have time to make a bomb picnic.

 

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for a more local feel..

 

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1:24hr and 34km ride

40min and 12km ride to from Potsdam to Caputh

1:24 hours and a 35km ride

1:24 hours and a 35km ride to Caputh from Potsdam

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Liebnitzsee Lake (North)

This spot north of the city is a favorite to Berliners. It has calm, beautiful trails around, an island for camping, and an overall joyful vibe. A lot of swimmers bring rafts so they can swim from the main lake over to the island that has campers. The island has a tarzan style rope where you can swing off and land into the lake. Too fun. From the nearest train station it’s a 12km bike ride partially on the road and partially among the trees.

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40min and 12km ride to Liptzensee

 

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Flos und Los Boat

Of course some days are not for swimming in which case hopefully you bet on the weather, planned far in advance and rented a boat. Flos Un Los 10er Cabrio + Grill is our favorite ride. Good price, two floors, plenty of room for a sound system, a toilet, covered area, and doesn’t require a driver. It’s a little annoying to get here but that seemed to be the case with all the boat companies near Berlin. From their pickup you can take a very route through the greens or industrial former East Berlin.

And now onto something so obvious you might forget…

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Spreefahrt Tour

The “tour of Berlin” boat tour is an obvious move for parents, but actually I too had a great time. The BWSG Spreefahrt Tour was in English and German which is the first plus. They have drinks and food service and different length tours. The one-hour tour was a bit short for European style relaxing but still good. The pickup is centrally located near Hackershermarkt so you can fit into any kind of tourism you probably have that day. The best part? The tour guide didn’t talk the entire time. There was ample quiet time to enjoy the beautiful scenes of Berlin actually chat with the people you’re with.

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And if you can’t make it on a boat, there’s one more option:

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Badeschiff

Leave it to Berlin to drop a pool in the middle of the Spree. Amongst the waterfront clubs like Club der Visionare, Ipse, and Watergate is this swimming spot. It’s open all day, serves food, drinks, has a beach, and most importantly a pool (overlooking my office). If you can’t or don’t want to do all the planning that comes with a boat, swim in the pool and watch them and the kayakers float by.

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This is a lovely weekend trip if you enjoy drifting through streets enjoying what a city has to offer. Copenhagen is clean, kind, gentle, and smart. It’s known for great food, furniture, fashion, and art.

Eating

Before we go any further, you must have a small plates breakfast at Møller – Kaffe og Køkken in Nørrebrogade. They open at 9am which is a good time to arrive because not surprisingly the lines get long. The eggs are deliciously herby and the hot chocolate is knockout. I recommend only getting the sourdough bread (rather than the sourdough + rye combo). The bacon and dates were rich and wonderful wherease the brie was underwhelming. The avocados weren’t super ripe but I still enjoyed them and the table next door ordered the peppers (Spanish tapas style) which looked amazing. Have fun, indulge, and enjoy!  It was like having some goooood San Francisco-style eating which can be harder to find in some parts of Europe.14046011_10107547648349069_8580490670362602861_n

 

We didn’t try to eat at Noma. But my friend said “Relæ was a standout, get a reservation if you can, oh my god. It honestly was in different ways as memorable as Noma, and way more accessible from a reservation and price point perspective.” Our trip was too short to try but I trust all his food recommendations.

But at some point we stopped looking up recommendations because everything we ate was wonderful and adorable. Also had a tasty (but missable) breakfast at Mirabelle and an incredible cocktail at. Spise\Bar no. 20. A friend told me visit Bagelman if you want a big hearty salad. You can also visit Torvehallerne the which has many little stands for lunch (but not dinner) or get a hot dog in Red Square Park at the food trucks:

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I highly recommend riding a bike, even if just for the day. My friend and I rented these bright orange Donkey Bikes. They have pick ups all over the city and are very soft, smooth, comfortable drives. You’ll instantly feel more local and will spend your energy getting around much better. The taxis are not cheap. They say you don’t need an internet connection (just bluetooth) but my friend had trouble loading the lock and unlock screen sometimes so she would hotspot from my phone just to load the one screen.

Louisiana Museum

Next stop is that you must take a day to go to the Louisiana Museum (especially now that you’ve rented a bike). Take the 45-minute train from the city center to the Humlebæk St. station. Google will suggest all these bus routes, ignore them and take the train. Then it’s a boringish 10-15 minute walk which is why it’s great if you have your bike. It sounds like a schlep but it’s one of the best art museums I’ve been to in the world and it reminded me of a mini Naoshima.

The queue to get into the Louisiana is a bit long so arriving early helps. There are also a few special tickets you can get that lets you jump the queue. Read more about that here. Enjoy the museum, explore, wander, and spend time gazing over the ocean in their sculpture park. My main tip is to make time to visit the Kusama Infinity room. So if you want to take photos in there (which is fun!) plan to go at least twice so can get a little lost in the lights.

 

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Music

We didn’t go to any parties in Copenhagen, but there’s a nice techno community there. The local house heads pointed me to Culture Box and a few other places. We went there to see Louis CK at the Forum. Make sure to check out the lineups because it seems like all kinds of great acts come through the city all the time. We biked on a pier and found a tiny little lounge party that was also a real treat.

Where to stay

We stayed slightly outside (and slightly cheaper in Nørrebrogade. Copenhagen isn’t a huge city so it wasn’t too out of the way and definitely not a big deal with the bike.

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Very sorry to say we also didn’t make it to Christiania but I’m told if you go there and past all the touristic sights there are some interesting houses and more to see. Enjoy!

Wander, enjoy, sit on soft couches, and enjoy all the friendly blonde people!

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I have tickets to four festivals this year but in the end only attended one. Here’s what I’ve learned from my singular experience and what my friends here have shared:

  • People can handle their substances. People don’t seem to binge drink and get zombie messed up on drugs
  • Berliners love being in nature. Living in the concrete jungle draws out a deeper joy and appreciation (and protection from littering) in nature
  • The sound system are tuned. A high percentage of Berliners have a higher bar and expectation for sound quality and it’s met
  • Stages and environmental details have extra care. A lot of personality is brought to details of the aesthetics (stage design, fun notes, good lighting)
  • Food is often healthy and vegan friendly
  • They are more niche. There are more festivals and of different sizes. They’re not racing to become the biggest, baddest, best festival. They joyfully sit inside of their size and grow organically.
  • People sleep! Similar to binge drinking, some people actually rest at night and come back not completely exhausted and drained from the event.

I went to a small festival, I’d rather not advertise which one, but it was wonderful and there was a rainbow!

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The composition of a city is its architecture, politics, food, environment, and of course people. The mid-year churn transforms this city making it hard to determine if it’s summer or winter that is the real Berlin.

Summer draws unending number of tourists while the people living here skip out for their own holidays. The summer vacationers become indistinguishable from the transient semi-residents who pass through Berlin for a few months or years. Berlin’s spirit lifts with the sun and outsiders giving the season an electric feel. Winter however, famously cold and hard, is dear to my heart. It’s a quiet, inward looking season that brings out the direct and matter of fact qualities that make Berlin itself.

Now it’s mid August and not three days have gone by all summer without someone I care about from San Francisco or New York in town. It’s remarkable, surprising, and sometimes challenging as a host. Thankfully as all of us have matured. Friends understand people who live here have a day-to-day life and it’s not always possible to meet. But my biggest insight is that many friends visit Berlin for a week and fantasize about living here and there is a significant difference between holiday and life in  Berlin if you work a professional job: responsibility.

Language, culture, structure, diversity, and commitment are all things that can really change an experience of living versus playing in Berlin.

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There’s no question Brazil and Germany have a long time history together. Brazil is home to the second largest German-Austrian population outside their home countries and Germany saw a huge wave of Brazilians after their economy crashed in the 90s. This matters to me because, well, many people I meet in Berlin think I’m Brazilian. Specifically, men, and usually Germans.

Me in Argentina... kind of near Brazil

Me in Argentina… kind of near Brazil

Of the German men I meet outside mutual friends (e.g. in public, at a party, online) who offer to guess my origin, 80-95% think I’m from Brazil. Turkish, Middle Eastern, African, and Indian men usually correctly guess my origins are Indian. I don’t have enough interactions with men from Eastern Asia to make a guess. And almost no women in Berlin try to guess my origin, usually they ask where I’m from.

I’m also not sure if it’s a commentary on the presence of Brazilians in Germany, Indians in Germany (nearly the same by a rough Wikipedia estimate), how I cary myself, or some other factor.

That being said, hopefully it’s a compliment, it hasn’t gotten in the way of any experiences yet. But it sure is curious. In other news, the Delicia’s, a Brazilian Nail Salon in Friedrichshain is excellent.

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There’s no question on visiting the Acropolis and Ancient Agora when visiting the cradle of civilization. It’s €20 up to the top and €30 for access to nearly all the sights around the city. Spring for the extra few bucks, it’s completely worth it.

Now that we got that out of the way, let’s talk about what’s happening in Athens today. I had such a short time in this great city I didn’t get to leave Monastiraki, but still there was plenty to do. I loved my simple, cheap, clean, hotel-like Airbnb. My host Stelios met me at the Metro and was responsive by iMessage throughout the trip. The location was minutes away from everything I wanted to do. Highly recommended if you need a convenient, quiet, place with excellent AC and a great shower and good rest.


Light & Casual Studio@Psirri

Athina, Greece

Light and casual studio, available for 2 persons only located at focal Athens downtown district (Psirri). Fairly renovated, furnished minimal and fully equipped (i.e. kitchen, WiFi & TV etc.) for t…

 

Cinque Wine Bar

This is my number one must do in Athens. The have an incredible wine selection and a delicious free tasting. They’re kind, generous and will help you feel welcome. Indulge in the cheese and charcuterie plate. Though everything on the menu looked awesome and they’re open late. I’ll be very upset if you like wine and don’t go here.

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The kind people at Cinque Wine Bar led me to Oineas that had wonderful service and everything delicious. Here’s an obligatory Greek Salad photo. They only served house wine by the glass but it did the trick.

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I try to take a yoga class in most big cities I visit. During this trip SF’s Janet Stone was teaching several workshops that led me the Bhavana Yoga Center. It’s clean, professional, convenient, and seems to practice deep, heart-centric practices. Another great option if you want to stretch it out before a day up the Acropolis.

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Spanikopita everywhere, just indulge yourself here. But beyond the Feta are many delicious cheeses. I found the Meliartos review from the NYT overhyped. Though I should have also tried their desserts. But a corner spot flying under the radar making killer homemade dough pides is delicious and herbaous Feyrouz (below).

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I had a cafe Freddo the national coffee drink (so I’m told)half of the small sampler platter at Atitamos. I have yet to find these “small portion sizes” in Europe.

13839772_10107427228775859_341028505_o13835724_10107427228840729_1314659032_oIt’s minutes away from the Ancient Agora and Sadao Outfitters also a wonderful boutique that makes modern Greek inspired organic cotton dresses, scarves, and other goodies. This is a great place to get a gift (ahem even for yourself) if you like locally made, yet still modern fashion. Leave the chachkis for others. Which brings me to the Sunday Flea Market. Skip it. You’ve seen it before and it’s a full on tourist trap.

And last but not least, don’t miss this hidden hipster jungle with light herby cocktails and trees everywhere. It’s a great place for a lazy sit between dusty crawls through ancient architexture.

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Now, could I really write a post on Athens without one stunning shot of the Acropolis? No, I can’t. My host recommended I go to Bar 360 for a drink or dinner for a great view. He was right about the view (below) but the energy in there was a bit… Mykanos. Clubby and loud. I suggest going up there for a snap and breath of fresh air then like me immediately sprinting down for a calm dinner on a quiet street. Enjoy Athens for a long weekend before some relaxing island hopping!

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P.S. if you do go to Mykanos for some reason, don’t miss the windsurfers and private feeling beach Ftelia Beach and daytime music at Scorpios restaurant and bar.

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Every election liberal Americans threaten to move to Europe or Canada if {insert tyrant} becomes president. Of course they never do change cities, but the comment illustrates a point. I’m furious about {insert tyrant}. I’m hearing the opposite from expats in Berlin. “Maybe it’s time to return home and work on something that needs me.”

Returning Home

I woke up in tears reading about the police officers in Dallas. It’s not that these particular lives lost moved me more than the other countless mass shootings in America this year. Each time we lose more lives to intolerance I hope this is the tipping point. I’m in pain because I’m afraid these murders will continue. The tipping point for me means we won’t rest until there is cultural and legal change to stop mass shootings. It’s an unbelievable horrible nightmare that makes me want to come home and do something with impact. I can’t sit in or speak up from so far away.

Last weekend I was chatting with a British party friend about all kinds of mindless things until Brexit came up. This friend enjoys his life in Berlin, good friends, good music, good home, making a living; no huge motive to change course. But amidst the decision, he did feel a call to return home. Whether or not he or I can make a meaningful difference at home is another question, but this attitude does show me a positive turn of perspective on my escapist generation. Instead of running away to a “better” life, thirty somethings are feeling called back home to do something that serves outside themselves.

Staying Home

I watched the Vice City Street tour of Halsted St in Chicago which reminded me of people who live their entire lives in one city. They make an impact on the city simply by creating a life and staying there, becoming an essential thread in the cities Fabric. If they went elsewhere part of Chicagos’ fabric would snag and unravel. The community barber shop would close, a gay bar in boystown would no longer be a safe haven, or a family run hot dog stand would end a staple of the city. Some cities like Berlin and San Francisco unravel and resew their cities every day and some like Chicago or Detroit stay strongly woven. The impact their locals have is slow but stays.

Making in Berlin

Foreigners in Berlin appear woven into the city’s fabric but I’m wondering how integrated we are, if at all. My conscious effort to make German friends, practice the language, and attempt to localize was huge for me but also quite small. I am learning Berlin gets used as a spacious, inexpensive canvas for many expats who will pay the cultural cost of moving somewhere new. We will spend in cash, learn enough language around, and fill out just enough paper work to stay here and make art. It’s changing Berlin into a transient place where so much of what’s exciting to outsiders is not coming from locals.

What gets missed in all the hype is what’s actually wonderful about the real fabric of Berlin’s city. The pace, the perspective, the beliefs. I want to further understand how (or if at all) active change in Berlin is possible with so many people coming and going who are invested in Berlin, but only just enough.

 

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